Recommended Installation Methods of Insulation

Roof insulation rolls are cut to lengths that will cover the distance from eave to eave, leaving a one-foot overhang on each side of the building.

1) Start at the end of the building and temporarily secure one end of the roll by attaching the insulation to the eave strut with double-faced tape.

2) Pull the insulation across the purlins with the vapor barrier toward the building interior. Double-faced tape attached to the opposite end of the insulation will keep tension on the roof roll while the metal panels are being attached over the insulation.

3) Install the next roll in the same manner, making sure the rolls are stretched tight, aligned properly and closely butted.

4) Fasten tabs using one of the methods described on the following page. Any rips or tears must be covered with matching facing tape to ensure a tight vapor seal.

5) Trim excess insulation flush to prevent it from acting as a wick and moving water into the building.

Controlling Condensation

Two things must be present for condensation to occur: warm moist air and cool surface temperatures below the dew point. The proper control of these two factors can minimize condensation.

In metal buildings, we are concerned with two different areas or locations: visible condensation which occurs on exposed surfaces below dew point temperatures, and concealed condensation which occurs when moisture has passed through the vapor retarder and into interior roof and/or wall cavities and then condenses on a surface below dew point temperature.

Secondary Framing

Secondary framing is created from rolled steel coated with a red-oxide primer finish in gages from 12 to 16 to provide an extremely rigid, and corrosion resistant structure. The following elements are formed as secondary framing:

Girts (walls) & Purlins (roof): These members run the length of the building providing rigidity, and a sturdy skeleton to attach the sheeting. They are rolled from steel coils 12,14 or 16-gauge steel, or thicker if needed. All girts and purlins are pre-punched for ease of assembly.

Eave Struts: This is a rolled member formed into a "C" to match the pitch of the roof. The eave strut is also made of 12, 14, or 16-gauge steel.

Structural Design

We design and manufacture pre-engineered steel buildings, and offer you a number of advantages over conventional construction techniques. Steel buildings are inexpensive and incredibly tough. Our bolt-together design is assembled quickly without any specialized skills. Each rigid frame is comprised of two or more columns supporting a rafter across the width of the building. In most steel buildings, endwall bearing frames support one-half the load of a rigid "main" frame. In most situations, we utilize the more economical "bearing" end frames. Adding an expandable endwall or rigid frame is only a click away. Unlike any of our competitors, we allow you to choose the endwall condition of your building. Depending on design considerations, our endwall rafters and columns may be either hot rolled or cold-formed.

The space between the rigid frames of a steel building is referred to as a "bay."- an 80' long building has been divided into four 20' bays by spacing the frames 20' apart (4 x 20' = 80'). This configuration is described as "four bays at 20." A 100' building could be configured with four bays at 25 (4x 25' = 100')

Endwall bay spacing is usually determined by the building width. You can add one or more framed openings to most buildings. Endwall bay spacing can usually changed to accommodate your needs without changing the price.

Recommended Installation Methods of Insulation

Roof insulation rolls are cut to lengths that will cover the distance from eave to eave, leaving a one-foot overhang on each side of the building.

1) Start at the end of the building and temporarily secure one end of the roll by attaching the insulation to the eave strut with double-faced tape.

2) Pull the insulation across the purlins with the vapor barrier toward the building interior. Double-faced tape attached to the opposite end of the insulation will keep tension on the roof roll while the metal panels are being attached over the insulation.

3) Install the next roll in the same manner, making sure the rolls are stretched tight, aligned properly and closely butted.

4) Fasten tabs using one of the methods described on the following page. Any rips or tears must be covered with matching facing tape to ensure a tight vapor seal.

5) Trim excess insulation flush to prevent it from acting as a wick and moving water into the building.