Visible Condensation

To effectively control visible condensation, it is necessary to reduce the cold surface areas where condensation may occur. It is also important to minimize the air moisture content within a building through the use of properly designed ventilating systems.

On The Farm

I don't know of any farm operation that could get buy without barns for equipment storage, feed storage or any other general warehousing needs. Many older farms are now removing old wooden structures and replacing their old buildings with new steel structures. While the old antique tractor may look good in front of the old barn, many are weary of storing precious items in an old rotten structure. Steel is stronger, straighter and will last eons longer than wood. In a home, wood is fine. Houses are designed so that the wooden structural components do not have direct exposure to the elements, but on the farm it is often hard to prevent the outside from coming into the barn.

Wall Installation

Labels on wall insulation rolls indicate the length as well as the number of pieces that need to be cut from each roll. We recommend that all rolls be cut from a clean location to avoid staining the insulation facing.

1) Cut the dimensions of the insulation from the base angle to eave strut or rake plus 6"-12" extra.

2) Attach one end of the insulation to the base angle using double-faced tape.

3) Pull from the other end to stretch the insulation tightly outside the girts to the eave or rake, and attach with double-faced tape.

4) Make sure the facing is toward the interior of the building and attach the panel to the structure.

5) Install the next roll in the same manner, with edges butted snugly. Then fasten the tabs using one of the methods described.

Secondary Framing

Secondary framing is created from rolled steel coated with a red-oxide primer finish in gages from 12 to 16 to provide an extremely rigid, and corrosion resistant structure. The following elements are formed as secondary framing:

Girts (walls) & Purlins (roof): These members run the length of the building providing rigidity, and a sturdy skeleton to attach the sheeting. They are rolled from steel coils 12,14 or 16-gauge steel, or thicker if needed. All girts and purlins are pre-punched for ease of assembly.

Eave Struts: This is a rolled member formed into a "C" to match the pitch of the roof. The eave strut is also made of 12, 14, or 16-gauge steel.

Building Permits/Codes

Do I need a building permit to build my metal building? - You will almost always need a building permit. On occasion you will not need a permit to build but you should ALWAYS check with your local building inspector before purchasing a metal building.

When I call my building inspector what should I tell them? - When you get in touch with your building inspector let him know what you're planning and you should be able to receive the information you'll need to get a building permit for your new metal building.

What do I do if I need permit drawings? - We supply the permit drawings to you after you have committed to buy a metal building from us. We will not begin fabrication or shipment until you have completed the approval process. See the Approval Process section of our website.

What about building codes and loads? - Every metal building that we ship is engineered to comply with regional building codes, wind load and snow load requirements (as stated on your plans). When you start designing your metal building, make sure to review your building code specifications very closely. Since there can be varying requirements within regions - you will need to confirm the codes by contacting your local building official. MetalBuildingDepot.Com is not responsible for confirming codes.