Metal Storage Buildings

Metal storage buildings have multiple advantages over wood framed buildings. The upkeep required to maintain wood structures is not an issue with pre engineered steel buildings. Make an investment that will work for you for a lifetime with robust metal storage buildings.

A concern with any building is its ability to maintain an acceptable appearance over years. Wooden buildings need repainting and resealing. Metal buildings, rust resistant, and require far less maintenance than conventional structures.

Wooden buildings are susceptible to rotting, insects and leaking. If you are storing equipment, livestock or anything of value, these elements are harmful to a conventional structure. Save yourself time and anguish by investing in metal storage buildings with a steel framework and a heavy insulation package.

Why are steel buildings so popular?

That's easy. Price. All around price. They are less per square foot than any other known form of construction, and can be erected quickly, offering its owners faster access to their new building. We are seeing more buildings sold for residential use. People are putting up shops and garages faster than you can count. As rural America gets divided into smaller ranches, we see the increase for barns, arenas, horse stalls... etc.

Condensation Control

The condensation process occurs when warmer moist air comes in contact with cold surfaces such as framing members, windows and other thermally conductive accessories, or the colder region within the insulation itself (if moisture has penetrated the vapor retarder). Warm air, having the ability to contain more moisture than cold air, loses that ability when it comes in contact with cooler surfaces or regions. When this happens, excessive moisture in the air is released in the form of condensation. If this moisture collects in the insulation, the insulating value is decreased.

In dealing with condensation, air may be considered to be a mixture of two gases-dry air and water vapor. One thousand cubic feet of air at 75°F can hold up to 1.4 pints of water. At 45°F, it can hold only 0.5 pints.

Relative Humidity is a percentage measurement of the amount of water vapor present in the air in relation to the amount it is capable of holding at that temperature. Therefore, 50% Relative Humidity would mean that the air is carrying only one-half of the total amount of moisture that it could be holding at that particular temperature. Cold outside air is usually much drier than warm inside air. Therefore, you can lower the Relative Humidity by bringing in outside air to mix with and dilute the moist inside air. At 100% Relative Humidity, the air is "saturated."

The temperature at which the air is saturated and can no longer hold additional moisture is called the dew point temperature. Whenever air temperature drops below its dew point, excess moisture will be released in the form of condensation. Condensation problems are most likely to occur in climates where temperatures frequently dip to 35°F or colder over an extended period of time.

Insulating Against Radiant Heat

Traditional forms of mass insulation, like fiberglass, are effective in preventing heat transfer by conduction and convection, but they less effect on radiant heat. Between 80 and 90% of the radiant heat striking fiberglass will pass through or be "emitted". Radiant transfer typically has as much impact on the temperature in a building as conduction and convection. For more information on radiant barrier facings click here.

Recommended Installation Methods of Insulation

Roof insulation rolls are cut to lengths that will cover the distance from eave to eave, leaving a one-foot overhang on each side of the building.

1) Start at the end of the building and temporarily secure one end of the roll by attaching the insulation to the eave strut with double-faced tape.

2) Pull the insulation across the purlins with the vapor barrier toward the building interior. Double-faced tape attached to the opposite end of the insulation will keep tension on the roof roll while the metal panels are being attached over the insulation.

3) Install the next roll in the same manner, making sure the rolls are stretched tight, aligned properly and closely butted.

4) Fasten tabs using one of the methods described on the following page. Any rips or tears must be covered with matching facing tape to ensure a tight vapor seal.

5) Trim excess insulation flush to prevent it from acting as a wick and moving water into the building.