Recommended Installation Methods of Insulation

Roof insulation rolls are cut to lengths that will cover the distance from eave to eave, leaving a one-foot overhang on each side of the building.

1) Start at the end of the building and temporarily secure one end of the roll by attaching the insulation to the eave strut with double-faced tape.

2) Pull the insulation across the purlins with the vapor barrier toward the building interior. Double-faced tape attached to the opposite end of the insulation will keep tension on the roof roll while the metal panels are being attached over the insulation.

3) Install the next roll in the same manner, making sure the rolls are stretched tight, aligned properly and closely butted.

4) Fasten tabs using one of the methods described on the following page. Any rips or tears must be covered with matching facing tape to ensure a tight vapor seal.

5) Trim excess insulation flush to prevent it from acting as a wick and moving water into the building.

Before you Buy

Do you know the company you're doing business with? Is the supplier a member of the Better Business Bureau? Do they have a record of dealing honestly? Can they refer you to satisfied customers? Is the physical address to the company available? Can you visit them at their offices? Are they a real company with a history of quality manufacturing? Are they Active Members of the AISC (American Institute of Steel Construction) Do they post any affiliation with any steel building association? Do you know what you are paying for? Does the steel building contract give line-item prices? Will you receive comprehensive set of erection plans? Are you getting written 30-year paint and 25-year Galvalume Plus® warranties? Does the contract specify 26 gauge panels? Does their roof panels include a "purlin bearing" leg? Does the roof system have an Underwriters Laboratories Class 90 rating? Are you being supplied with premium fasteners with a lifetime red-rust warranty? Will your steel building have a sculptured trim package? Are all the clips welded to primary structural components? Are the framed openings factory located? Does the supplier have the ability to engineer a custom design? Will you receive an 80+ page fully illustrated erection manual? Does the supplier have an in-house customer service department? Does the supplier actually manufacture what they sell? Do they process and produce all their drawings in-house? Do they ask you to sign a contract and pay a deposit before you know the total cost?

Facing Types

Popular Facings include:

WMP-VR-R,WMP-VR,WMP-VR-BLACK,WMP-10,WMP-10-BLACK,WMP-50

Specialty Facings include:

WCF-50,WCF-30,WMP-30,Arenasheild,Gymguard,R-3035-HD,WMP-F,VRP-HD,VSF-HD

Insulation

Used to assist in the retention of heat or cooling. White reinforced vinyl. The thickness options are 3", 4" and 6" which have an "R Value" of 10, 13 and 19 respectively.

Foundations

Do I need a foundation for my metal building? - Some people choose to pour a full slab foundation, however if you're planning on leaving the floor in a dirt or gravel condition, concrete piers will do the job just fine. Please contact a customer service representative if you don't plan to pour a full slab foundation.

Can you provide an engineer stamped foundation layout? - Yes, but in some cases your soil conditions play a major role in the type of foundation you can use. Contact our special sales department for more information. If using a local engineer, we will provide anchor bolt plans to aid your engineer in designing the foundation.

Do you supply the hardware to attach the frame to foundation? - No, the anchor bolts are usually supplied by a concrete contractor and placed when the foundation is poured.