Pre Engineered Metal Buildings

Deciding to use a pre-engineered metal building is a wise choice. But, there is important information you will need to provide to the manufacturer in order to have your new steel building to be designed to precise specifications. Understanding your building needs and restrictions can help when you consult with a steel building manufacturer.

A few questions you need to ask yourself once you decide to buy a metal building system. What are my size limitations? What will the building be used for? What special building requirements are needed?

Why the answers to these questions are so critical is that they expose precisely what kind of pre-engineered building system will satisfy your needs. Metal church buildings have very different structural demands than those of mini storage buildings. If investing money into a pre engineered metal building system it only makes sense to research all options.

Perplexed about where to start? Contact a manufacturer; they will ask you the right questions to get what information they need to suitably determine your building needs. They can also help you review your requirements to equip your structure with the appropriate interior and exterior features.

Steel Storage Buildings

Some people might not fully appreciate their need for a steel storage building. Think about all the prized possessions, and family heirlooms you are storing in the garage or attic - or even worse - paying high storage fees. There is a far more economical way to store all of your possessions.

Whether you are looking to build a storage building for commercial or business use or a simple steel storage building for personal use - you cannot make a wiser choice than with a steel building system. The sturdy metal frame system makes steel storage buildings structurally superior. Pre-engineered steel buildings offer reliable protection to your investments.

As with all products, not every manufacturer utilizes high quality materials. Look for a company that explains its materials and its use. Be sure to ask questions about steel storage buildings before you buy, any manufacturer will be happy to address any concerns.

Components/Accessories

Which base trim option should I choose? - The base trim that you choose for your steel building will depend on your building's needs and the type of foundation you use. Although we strongly recommend a notched base, we do offer several additional base trim options to suit your specific needs. Please see base conditions for more helpful information and illustrations.

What type of windows do you offer? - We offer a selection of windows for your building. To learn more about what's available please visit the accessories section of our website.

What comes with the doors and windows? - All of our doors and windows come with the required hardware to install them into your steel building. We provide the framing, trim, and flashing for a proper installation.

How do I know where to place my windows and doors? - Windows and walk doors are generally "field located." You, as the customer, will pick the location, cut the corresponding panel to size and proceed to mount the doors and windows. If you choose to include a large number of windows or doors we may ask you to give us your proposed location to ensure proper building bracing.

How do I attach my doors and windows? - All of our walk doors are self-framing, so they include the necessary items to mount them on your building. Our windows are secured by screwing the window trim directly into the building. This is also known as self-flashing. If you live in a high wind area, please talk to one of our design consultants about additional door and window mounting options.

What is the R-Value of your insulation? - The r-value of our insulation depends on the thickness you choose. It will vary between R-10 and R-19. Please see the r-value section of our website for more helpful information.

Condensation Control

The condensation process occurs when warmer moist air comes in contact with cold surfaces such as framing members, windows and other thermally conductive accessories, or the colder region within the insulation itself (if moisture has penetrated the vapor retarder). Warm air, having the ability to contain more moisture than cold air, loses that ability when it comes in contact with cooler surfaces or regions. When this happens, excessive moisture in the air is released in the form of condensation. If this moisture collects in the insulation, the insulating value is decreased.

In dealing with condensation, air may be considered to be a mixture of two gases-dry air and water vapor. One thousand cubic feet of air at 75°F can hold up to 1.4 pints of water. At 45°F, it can hold only 0.5 pints.

Relative Humidity is a percentage measurement of the amount of water vapor present in the air in relation to the amount it is capable of holding at that temperature. Therefore, 50% Relative Humidity would mean that the air is carrying only one-half of the total amount of moisture that it could be holding at that particular temperature. Cold outside air is usually much drier than warm inside air. Therefore, you can lower the Relative Humidity by bringing in outside air to mix with and dilute the moist inside air. At 100% Relative Humidity, the air is "saturated."

The temperature at which the air is saturated and can no longer hold additional moisture is called the dew point temperature. Whenever air temperature drops below its dew point, excess moisture will be released in the form of condensation. Condensation problems are most likely to occur in climates where temperatures frequently dip to 35°F or colder over an extended period of time.

Recommended Installation Methods of Insulation

Roof insulation rolls are cut to lengths that will cover the distance from eave to eave, leaving a one-foot overhang on each side of the building.

1) Start at the end of the building and temporarily secure one end of the roll by attaching the insulation to the eave strut with double-faced tape.

2) Pull the insulation across the purlins with the vapor barrier toward the building interior. Double-faced tape attached to the opposite end of the insulation will keep tension on the roof roll while the metal panels are being attached over the insulation.

3) Install the next roll in the same manner, making sure the rolls are stretched tight, aligned properly and closely butted.

4) Fasten tabs using one of the methods described on the following page. Any rips or tears must be covered with matching facing tape to ensure a tight vapor seal.

5) Trim excess insulation flush to prevent it from acting as a wick and moving water into the building.