Recommended Installation Methods of Insulation

Roof insulation rolls are cut to lengths that will cover the distance from eave to eave, leaving a one-foot overhang on each side of the building.

1) Start at the end of the building and temporarily secure one end of the roll by attaching the insulation to the eave strut with double-faced tape.

2) Pull the insulation across the purlins with the vapor barrier toward the building interior. Double-faced tape attached to the opposite end of the insulation will keep tension on the roof roll while the metal panels are being attached over the insulation.

3) Install the next roll in the same manner, making sure the rolls are stretched tight, aligned properly and closely butted.

4) Fasten tabs using one of the methods described on the following page. Any rips or tears must be covered with matching facing tape to ensure a tight vapor seal.

5) Trim excess insulation flush to prevent it from acting as a wick and moving water into the building.

Components/Accessories

Which base trim option should I choose? - The base trim that you choose for your steel building will depend on your building's needs and the type of foundation you use. Although we strongly recommend a notched base, we do offer several additional base trim options to suit your specific needs. Please see base conditions for more helpful information and illustrations.

What type of windows do you offer? - We offer a selection of windows for your building. To learn more about what's available please visit the accessories section of our website.

What comes with the doors and windows? - All of our doors and windows come with the required hardware to install them into your steel building. We provide the framing, trim, and flashing for a proper installation.

How do I know where to place my windows and doors? - Windows and walk doors are generally "field located." You, as the customer, will pick the location, cut the corresponding panel to size and proceed to mount the doors and windows. If you choose to include a large number of windows or doors we may ask you to give us your proposed location to ensure proper building bracing.

How do I attach my doors and windows? - All of our walk doors are self-framing, so they include the necessary items to mount them on your building. Our windows are secured by screwing the window trim directly into the building. This is also known as self-flashing. If you live in a high wind area, please talk to one of our design consultants about additional door and window mounting options.

What is the R-Value of your insulation? - The r-value of our insulation depends on the thickness you choose. It will vary between R-10 and R-19. Please see the r-value section of our website for more helpful information.

On The Farm

I don't know of any farm operation that could get buy without barns for equipment storage, feed storage or any other general warehousing needs. Many older farms are now removing old wooden structures and replacing their old buildings with new steel structures. While the old antique tractor may look good in front of the old barn, many are weary of storing precious items in an old rotten structure. Steel is stronger, straighter and will last eons longer than wood. In a home, wood is fine. Houses are designed so that the wooden structural components do not have direct exposure to the elements, but on the farm it is often hard to prevent the outside from coming into the barn.

General Guidelines

When you decide to buy a Building - Confirm the accuracy of your building codes. It is imperative that your building conforms to the state, local and federal design requirements.

The items described on your contract are what you are buying. Please be sure to carefully review all contract documents before you sign off. If a contract does not describe an item in specific terms, you should not expect the item to be the best product available. And just as important - is what a contract does not say. Specifically if your contract does not indicate that you are getting framed openings and garage doors - then you are NOT going to get framed openings and garage doors.

Do not sign a contract or agree to purchase a building before you have confirmed that your building will satisfy the requirements of your local building official and YOURSELF. Do not allow a salesman to pressure you into a "panic buy." A "panic buy" is when a customer is pressured into making a purchase to "lock-in" a "so-called" special price. Brokers are notorious for telling customers they could lose an opportunity to get the "deal of a lifetime" if they don't commit to the order right away. Beware of people who urge you to sign a contract before you have made your mind up on exactly what you want.

Understand that making changes after the sale will cost you money. Once the design is completed it will cost money to make changes. If an order is in fabrication - and requires modifications due to customer demands - the entire process has to be stopped, pulled off-line and inventoried. Once the inventory of completed items is confirmed, it's back to the drawing board. You will be responsible for extra time required to re-design the project and all other associated expenses.

Install your building components as specified by the drawings. Seldom do manufacturers use the same design practices and therefore your erection drawings and installation documents are the correct description of the building. Please read and follow the drawing descriptions carefully. An erection manual offers important general guidelines and the proper procedures for erecting a steel building safely. You, your erector and all jobsite crew need to understand and utilize OSHA and all other safety guidelines.

Perm Rating

The perm rating, or permeance, is a measure of the amount of water that passes through one square foot of material per hour. The lower the perm rating, the more effective the barrier. A facing material with a perm rating of 0.1 or less is considered excellent. Anything with a rating above 1.0 is not considered a vapor barrier.