Frame Features

Connection Clips - Specially fabricated clips are designed to securely connect structural components. Many companies supply only blank plates that must be cut, drilled and/or welded to components before assembly can begin. In some cases it may require many hours of work to connect required clips. Metal Building Depot details and supplies each clip and placement to every building manufactured. We factory weld all clips onto rigid frames and guarantee the correct placement of all component connections. Don't waste your time and money attaching clips that should have been factory located.

Structural Bracing - Most buildings under 60' have sufficient diaphragm action or "panel shear" that provides all the bracing needed to stabilize the building. In some cases of high winds, seismic or snow loads may cause more stress than panel shear can handle, so additional reinforcement may be required. In these extreme cases we will employ the use of X bracing to reinforce the frame. In situations where X bracing cannot be used a wind column is an excellent addition to strengthen a vertical rigid frame column. A portal frame is sometimes used in extreme load circumstances. Portal frames are fairly expensive and only necessary in rare circumstances.

Building Delivery/Shipment

How long does it take to get my metal building? - It usually takes between 4-8 weeks for your metal building to arrive after the order has been placed. MBD.com will supply you with a estimated delivery date upon order and a guaranteed date after fabrication.

How do I unload my metal building? - In most cases you'll need some heavy equipment (forklift) and a few helpers to get the job done. Everything will arrive at once so be sure to have your location prepped for material. After unloading your metal building be sure to do an inventory of ALL of your items, and let us know immediately if anything is missing. The amount of time to report missing items is limited to 5 days due to job site theft.

What if I’m not ready to put the metal building up when it gets there? - Your materials can be stored. Be sure to look over the information included to properly care for your wall and roof sheets. Please see UNLOADING AND STORING your building for more details.

What will freight cost? - We keep costs as low as possible. Your costs will vary depending on the mileage and the weight of your metal building.

Recommended Installation Methods of Insulation

Roof insulation rolls are cut to lengths that will cover the distance from eave to eave, leaving a one-foot overhang on each side of the building.

1) Start at the end of the building and temporarily secure one end of the roll by attaching the insulation to the eave strut with double-faced tape.

2) Pull the insulation across the purlins with the vapor barrier toward the building interior. Double-faced tape attached to the opposite end of the insulation will keep tension on the roof roll while the metal panels are being attached over the insulation.

3) Install the next roll in the same manner, making sure the rolls are stretched tight, aligned properly and closely butted.

4) Fasten tabs using one of the methods described on the following page. Any rips or tears must be covered with matching facing tape to ensure a tight vapor seal.

5) Trim excess insulation flush to prevent it from acting as a wick and moving water into the building.

Wall Installation

Labels on wall insulation rolls indicate the length as well as the number of pieces that need to be cut from each roll. We recommend that all rolls be cut from a clean location to avoid staining the insulation facing.

1) Cut the dimensions of the insulation from the base angle to eave strut or rake plus 6"-12" extra.

2) Attach one end of the insulation to the base angle using double-faced tape.

3) Pull from the other end to stretch the insulation tightly outside the girts to the eave or rake, and attach with double-faced tape.

4) Make sure the facing is toward the interior of the building and attach the panel to the structure.

5) Install the next roll in the same manner, with edges butted snugly. Then fasten the tabs using one of the methods described.

On The Farm

I don't know of any farm operation that could get buy without barns for equipment storage, feed storage or any other general warehousing needs. Many older farms are now removing old wooden structures and replacing their old buildings with new steel structures. While the old antique tractor may look good in front of the old barn, many are weary of storing precious items in an old rotten structure. Steel is stronger, straighter and will last eons longer than wood. In a home, wood is fine. Houses are designed so that the wooden structural components do not have direct exposure to the elements, but on the farm it is often hard to prevent the outside from coming into the barn.