Before you Buy

Do you know the company you're doing business with? Is the supplier a member of the Better Business Bureau? Do they have a record of dealing honestly? Can they refer you to satisfied customers? Is the physical address to the company available? Can you visit them at their offices? Are they a real company with a history of quality manufacturing? Are they Active Members of the AISC (American Institute of Steel Construction) Do they post any affiliation with any steel building association? Do you know what you are paying for? Does the steel building contract give line-item prices? Will you receive comprehensive set of erection plans? Are you getting written 30-year paint and 25-year Galvalume Plus® warranties? Does the contract specify 26 gauge panels? Does their roof panels include a "purlin bearing" leg? Does the roof system have an Underwriters Laboratories Class 90 rating? Are you being supplied with premium fasteners with a lifetime red-rust warranty? Will your steel building have a sculptured trim package? Are all the clips welded to primary structural components? Are the framed openings factory located? Does the supplier have the ability to engineer a custom design? Will you receive an 80+ page fully illustrated erection manual? Does the supplier have an in-house customer service department? Does the supplier actually manufacture what they sell? Do they process and produce all their drawings in-house? Do they ask you to sign a contract and pay a deposit before you know the total cost?

Insulating Against Radiant Heat

Traditional forms of mass insulation, like fiberglass, are effective in preventing heat transfer by conduction and convection, but they less effect on radiant heat. Between 80 and 90% of the radiant heat striking fiberglass will pass through or be "emitted". Radiant transfer typically has as much impact on the temperature in a building as conduction and convection. For more information on radiant barrier facings click here.

Building Delivery/Shipment

How long does it take to get my metal building? - It usually takes between 4-8 weeks for your metal building to arrive after the order has been placed. MBD.com will supply you with a estimated delivery date upon order and a guaranteed date after fabrication.

How do I unload my metal building? - In most cases you'll need some heavy equipment (forklift) and a few helpers to get the job done. Everything will arrive at once so be sure to have your location prepped for material. After unloading your metal building be sure to do an inventory of ALL of your items, and let us know immediately if anything is missing. The amount of time to report missing items is limited to 5 days due to job site theft.

What if I’m not ready to put the metal building up when it gets there? - Your materials can be stored. Be sure to look over the information included to properly care for your wall and roof sheets. Please see UNLOADING AND STORING your building for more details.

What will freight cost? - We keep costs as low as possible. Your costs will vary depending on the mileage and the weight of your metal building.

Storage Buildings

It almost appears that almost every, home and garage is bursting at the seams. Surplus or unneeded equipment, furniture or other belongings clutter closets, attics and garages. But, the option of monthly storage fees does seem like a hefty price to pay just to hold on to the things you have.

Self-storage buildings are an easy way to put your money in someone else's pocket. Holiday decorations, childhood keepsakes and files all need to be retained for different reasons, but the cost of storage is a burden. Owning your own storage buildings is one way to lessen the expense of personal storage with a one-time quality investment.

The exciting thing about steel frame storage buildings is that you only buy them once. Mini storage is not as friendly you pay and pay, but you never own anything but the contents you placed in them. You may think that you don't need something as permanent as owning a personal storage building. But think about it - when are you going to let go of the things you have decided to save?

Condensation Control

The condensation process occurs when warmer moist air comes in contact with cold surfaces such as framing members, windows and other thermally conductive accessories, or the colder region within the insulation itself (if moisture has penetrated the vapor retarder). Warm air, having the ability to contain more moisture than cold air, loses that ability when it comes in contact with cooler surfaces or regions. When this happens, excessive moisture in the air is released in the form of condensation. If this moisture collects in the insulation, the insulating value is decreased.

In dealing with condensation, air may be considered to be a mixture of two gases-dry air and water vapor. One thousand cubic feet of air at 75°F can hold up to 1.4 pints of water. At 45°F, it can hold only 0.5 pints.

Relative Humidity is a percentage measurement of the amount of water vapor present in the air in relation to the amount it is capable of holding at that temperature. Therefore, 50% Relative Humidity would mean that the air is carrying only one-half of the total amount of moisture that it could be holding at that particular temperature. Cold outside air is usually much drier than warm inside air. Therefore, you can lower the Relative Humidity by bringing in outside air to mix with and dilute the moist inside air. At 100% Relative Humidity, the air is "saturated."

The temperature at which the air is saturated and can no longer hold additional moisture is called the dew point temperature. Whenever air temperature drops below its dew point, excess moisture will be released in the form of condensation. Condensation problems are most likely to occur in climates where temperatures frequently dip to 35°F or colder over an extended period of time.